Montpellier - Arles - Chateau la Coste
The idea was to make a route, starting in Montpellier. In a blog I wrote that the big city of Lyon was a bit disappointing. And, with one or two exceptions, also the modern architecture of Marseille did not appeal. An alternative was found: from Montpellier to Arles (skipping Nîmes), and then continued to Chateau la Coste in the tiny town of Le Puy Sainte de Réparade, almost 50 km. North of Marseille. Arles and La Coste should not be missed in the south of France.
Montpellier
Montpellier is in the South of France, a 4 hr. drive from Barcelona and 2 hrs. from Marseille. The city has 300.000 inhabitants and has a lot to offer to its visitors. The historic centre is beautiful, the atmosphere is relaxed especially outside the old city centre. And there is interesting modern architecture.
Montpellier calls itself ‘the French capital of architecture and design’. That is a matter for discussion, but a visit to Montpellier is worth the trip. The selection of places below is perfect for a nice walk.
L'Hôtel de ville
This is a marvellous building in a very nice context. The new city hall was opened end of 2011, and this big building was designed by Jean Nouvel and François Fontès. It is a large ‘cube’ (40 m. high) of blue glass and aluminium with a big (accessible) internal patio with a pond. The ground floor with an exhibition space, and the patio can be accessed. The building is situated next to the river Lez, at the edge of Port Marianne (see below). The colour of the facades changes according to the light (the sunset makes it shine), and the reflections of the water in the patio. It is worth to see the city hall a few times during a visit to Montpellier – to see how different light conditions change the appearance of the building.
The environment of the city hall is also enjoyable. The public space in front, the river next to the building, a park, restaurants and cafés in the neighbourhood, and people coming and going during office hours. In short, a nice destination for the architourist.
Video link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQ9y-uVaV_U&t=3s
Click to enlarge
Port Marianne
Port Marianne district is Montpellier's showcase of new architecture and urban planning. The district has parks, gardens and promenades and lot of modern, colourful residential buildings and space for commerce and offices. Diversity is the standard and many signature architect offices have contributed with their designs. The district is a mix of mostly residences, with retail, office and leisure.
For the architourist Port Marianne if perfect for a walk to explore the various corners of the district. A few buildings stand out. The RBC Design Center houses a contemporary design concept store behind a graphic façade decorated with trendy words. The Cloud is a very nice building – it has a semi-transparent polymer membrane that encapsulates the building. It is smooth during the day time, and the façade shines at night in blue or pink. The building houses activities dedicated to sport, health and self-care. The Koh-I-Noor residence has a jewel-like shine of its two-tone glass railings of the balconies. Reflections change according to the light conditions.
L'arbre Blanc (the white tree)
This white luxury apartment building, is 56 mts. high and has 17 floor. It was opened in 2019. With its 193 balconies hanging out, the building has a tree or plant form, and most of the balconies have indeed big plants. The sun leaves nice shadows. There is a brewery and a chic restaurant at the ground floor and a top bar for nice views. This building was chosen as most beautiful residential building in 2020 by ArchDaily.
Links: larbreblanc.net/le-projet/
Saint Roche
The Saint-Roch district has a mixed use with residences, green and public space, office, hotels, a big shopping centre and other commerce. The railway station is old, but has been refurbished, and the main hall is very nice - it has white walls looms that give a beautiful effect. Just outside the station is the white Belaroia building with residences and a big hotel. The Higher Roch tower is close and the tallest building in the district.
Links: metalocus.es/en/news/taking-care-detail-saint-benedict-chapel-peter-zumthor, www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CGd5w0xC8k
Antigone
This district, former a huge terrain with army barracks, is next to the historic centre and leads to the river Lez and L’arbre Blanc. The district was designed with neo-classical buildings (designed by Ricardo Bofill) and built in the 1980’s. At the end of Antigone and next to the river is the Place de Europe, a huge semi-circular area with a crescent of buildings. On the other side of the river is the building Hotel de Region. You find in the Antigone district social housing, an Olympic swimming pool, and big neo-classical buildings. Some visitors love it, they feel like walking on a film set. Others find it pompous. In any case, worth a visit.
There is a more in Montpellier, just check out ArchDaily
The tourist office of Montpellier offers a guided architecture tour (in French) along the river Lez, from Antigone to Port Marianne. A detailed brochure informing about a bid to become Cultural Capital in 2028 and inviting teams to come forward with ideas for architecture, can be found here (download).
A limitation of architourism in Montpellier is that many buildings like condomuniums and schools are not open to the general public. This is understandable but it makes an architecture tour in Montpellier a walking tour to enjoying the views.
Much new architecture is for middle and higher income residential development. Social housing is in Antigone, opened 40 years ago, and must be subject to gentrification now. David Gibaud wrote a book chapter 'Constructing the (Unequal) Creative City in Montpellier', to point out the paradox of creative urbanism and hidden poverty.
Arles - LUMA
From Montpellier to Arles is about 82 km. Arles is a small town, 52.00 people, and famous for its UNESCO listed Amphitheater and Roman theatre. Among, photographers, Arles is well-known for its annual photo festival held since 1970, the 'Rencontres d'Arles'. For modern architecture visitors, Arles has only one destination, but this single destination is special and definitely worth the trip.
In 2013, LUMA Arles was launched by LUMA Foundation (chaired by art patron Maja Hoffman), a creative campus with architecture and design, art, conferences and performances. It is a big estate, with a tall tower, a new landscape design and a series of renovated buildings from a former steam locomotives construction and maintenance site. In 2021 the construction of the eye-catching Tower (Frank Gehry) was finished, and in 2023 the last renovated building (Annabelle Selldorf) was inaugurated. The construction of the landscaped park (Belgian landscape designer Bart Smets) started in 2017 (it used to be a barren concrete platform).
In the small historic town of Arles, Gehry’s tower is something different, a glittering extravagant icon according to the Guardian. Decide for yourself. I found the interior of the tower more interesting than the outside of the building. The renovated industrial buildings have almost become minimal modern architecture – big spaces have been created for exhibitions and meetings. The landscaped park wonderfully connects green and grey. Some art installations and sculptures show the overlap between art and architecture, like the skatepark and the ‘Take your Time’ large circular mirror (by Ólafur Elíasson, see also the page on Danish architecture in Aarhus and Vejle) mirror fixed to the ceiling above the double-helix staircase. LUMA is a place to be experienced, and even if you are not very fond of modern art, you will not be disappointed.
Château la Coste
Château la Coste is an estate with a contemporary art, architecture, wine culture and restaurants. In comprises 200 hectares, 130 of which terrain with grape vines, and the remainder chestnut forests, and olive tree fields, and paths and architecture and art. The idea is to take the Promande Art & Architecture walk. It is a path - about a two-hour walk - that will take you through 43 architecture and artworks from contemporary architects and artists who have been working on site. Famous architects like Tadao Ando, Renzo Piano, Frank Gehry, Jean Nouvel, Oscar Niemeyer and Kengo Kuma have designed structures, and among the artists you find well-known people too (including Yoko Ono and Bob Dylan!) Château la Coste offers daily guided tours in English and French, and visitors who do the walk by themselves. receive a good map and additional information.
The blend of architecture, art and nature is great and stimulates all senses, as you can imagine. Not only the eye and the ear (Paul Matisse made a big installation with a meditation bell, louder than the wind through the trees) and the nose (the smell of forest and vineyard), but also the sense of space and direction. Château la Coste is an amazing destination.
Link: //chateau-la-coste.com/en/
